Budget Recommendations: Build a set in G-4 to VG-8 grade.
Recommendations for the Connoisseur: My advice parallels that given for Barber quarters and half dollars. Start with one nice coin for "type." If you want to form a date and mintmark set, EF-40 coins are an economical way to go. While MS-60 through MS-62 specimens are cheap (relatively speaking), most specimens look rather scruffy in these grades. For the connoisseur I recommend a nicely matched set of MS-63 and MS-64 coins, cherrypicked for aesthetic appeal. A good way to go is to look at a large number of slabbed coins and pick out those which are attractive. A set of Proof-63 to Proof-64 coins, again cherrypicked, forms a nice display. MS-65 and Proof-65 coins are gorgeous but are pricey, due to demand by investors, although many scarce branch mint coins in MS-65 are underpriced in relation to the commoner issues.
Elite Recommendations: Build a set in MS-65 grade, except for the 1892-1915 Philadelphia Mint coins which can be Proof-65.
Mercury Dimes (1916-1945)
In 1916 a new dime motif appeared. The work of sculptor Adolph A. Weinman, Miss Liberty now had wings on her head. As noted earlier in the present text, although the Mint intended that it be called a Liberty Head dime, the public quickly called it the Mercury dime, illogically so, for Mercury of mythology was a man who had wings on his feet.
The 1916 Mercury dime joined the Standing Liberty quarter and Walking Liberty half dollar of the same year as a new departure in American silver coinage. For the first time, circulating silver coin designs were prepared by artists not on the Mint staff. Precedents had been established with the 1909 Lincoln cent, 1913 Buffalo nickel, and the gold coins of 1907-1908, all of which had been created by outside talent.
Mercury dimes were immediately appreciated and desired by numismatists. The design was continued through 1945. Examples were coined in all years except 1922, 1932, and 1933. The rarest regular variety in the series is the 1916-D. Dimes dated 1921 and 1921-D are elusive. Two overdates are likewise rare, the 1942/1 and the 1942/1-D.
Budget Recommendations: Build a set of 1916-1931 issues in G-4 to VG-8 grades and the later issues 1934-1945 in F-20 or better grades.
16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30
31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45
46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60
61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75
76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90
91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104
105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109
PCGS Coin Guide Table Of Contents
